Cape Fear Foodie: Caprice bistro

WILMINGTON, N.C. (WECT) - As the calendar slips from September to October, and the seasons change from summer to fall, it would seem like the perfect opportunity for me to feature a local German restaurant with all of the Oktoberfest celebrations taking place. That’s to come next week, but for now why don’t we focus on Germany’s neighbor to the southwest...France.

Wilmington has a few options for French cuisine, all of which get rave reviews. One location in downtown is simply “très bien.” Of course, I’m referring to a culinary mainstay in the Port City, Caprice bistro.

Caprice has been around for more than 20 years, with Chef Thierry Moity and his wife Patricia from France and Belgium respectively. They’ve been stateside for decades, but those wonderful flavors and techniques from the Old World are still prevalent in every dish they serve.

Situated near the waterfront on Market Street, Caprice offers a quiet, intimate setting with lowered lighting, lively French music, and tasteful local artwork on the walls. It’s a beautiful space for any occasion, but even more so for a romantic dinner or a night of celebration.

The evening I visited, my friends and I immediately knew we needed a bottle of wine (how you can dine at a French restaurant and not drink wine?) and an order of escargot. A bottle of Bordeaux Blanc and a crock filled with “Escargots Petits Gris”, snails swimming in a luscious pool of Roquefort cheese, cream, and herbs, did just the trick. If you’re a fan of escargot, I don’t need to wax lyrical about its delicious virtues, but if you’ve never had them, they are meaty, like clams, with an earthen, chicken-like flavor. Caprice (s)nails this French classic.

If that’s not up your alley, there are plenty of other appetizers and small plates for your choosing. Caprice has everything from crepes to charcuterie, cheese plates, and even rabbit sausage. Given my adventurous tastes, I chose the latter: the “Saucisse Lapin.” A lean, seared sausage of rabbit, with caramelized onions. It’s a unique dish, and one where you can really taste the meat instead of the grease that comes with a typical pork-based sausage.

As for entrées, all of the classics are available. Mussels with frites (which comes with a mound of mussels and looked simply mouthwatering), “Beef Bourguignon,” and “Lamb Shank Cassoulet” are a just a few of the options.

My crew went a slightly different route that was equally as delicious. While not explicitly stated on the menu, don’t forget to ask your server about any specials they may have (this goes for any restaurant). This night’s special was a lovely filet of flounder (one of the nicest I’ve ever tried) topped with shrimp and a savory butter sauce.

Next was “Duck Confit,” it doesn’t get more traditional than this. Two duck legs, cooked in duck fat, with a gastrique, potatoes and a side of greens. The duck simply melts in your mouth. I would say it’s an absolutely must-try at Caprice, if not for this next dish.

The “Waterzooi.” A classic Belgian stew. This version is loaded with fresh seafood, jumbo pieces of shrimp, delicious cuts of fish, and mussels, all nestled in a “drink-from-the-bowl” cream broth. It’s the house specialty and for good reason. At first glance it looks rather simple, but that first bite explodes with flavor. It’s such a rich dish that just tastes expensive (and completely Instagram-worthy).

For dessert, one would think the table would have plumbed for the gorgeous “Crème Brulee,” admittedly my favorite French sweet treat. However, we chose the “Profiteroles,” three cream puffs filled with ice cream and drizzled with chocolate ganache and sliced almonds. It looks amazing on the plate, with crisp puff pastry, vanilla ice cream, crunchy almonds and decadent chocolate. I forgot all about the crème brulee.

I could go on and on about the experience at Caprice. The complimentary French bread, the locally sourced produce, all positives. Yet, possibly the most impressive aspects are the portions and price. This is fine dining without the wallet-busting costs that come with it. So when you’re planning your next date night, or just want some well-cooked food in a cozy setting, I highly recommend Caprice bistro in downtown Wilmington. You will be saying “bon appetit” in no time.

IF YOU GO:

Caprice bistro is located at 10 Market St, Wilmington, NC 28401

Do you recommend a restaurant? Or know of a best kept secret that you want the rest of the Cape Fear to know about? Shoot me an email at corey.preece@gray.tv and I would love to feature your selection. Cheers!

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